Getting and comparing quotes
How many solar quotes should I get before signing?
At least three. The Federal Trade Commission recommends three as a floor, and it is the single cheapest way to see the real price range for your roof and to expose any quote that is padded or lowballed. More than about five rarely adds information and mostly adds sales calls.
How do I compare solar quotes from two different companies?
Compare price per watt rather than the total sticker price, so systems of different sizes sit on equal footing. Then line up the equipment (panel and inverter make and model), the estimated annual production in kilowatt-hours, every warranty and its length, and who performs the install. The most complete quote is usually a better signal than the cheapest one.
Compare your own quotes below. Enter each bid's size and price to see the price per watt side by side, or open the full solar quote comparison calculator.
Quote A
Quote B
Quote C
Price per watt (total price divided by system watts) is the number that puts differently sized quotes on equal footing. The lowest price per watt is usually the better value, but weigh it against equipment quality, warranty backing, and whether the company is financially stable. Educational estimate only, not financial advice.
What should be included in a solar panel quote?
A complete quote names the exact panel and inverter make and model, the system size in kilowatts, an estimated annual production figure, the total price and the price per watt, financing terms if any, every warranty with its length, and the payment schedule. A quote missing the equipment models or a production estimate is not ready to compare.
Is the cheapest solar company the best choice?
Not usually. The lowest bid can mean cheaper panels, a shorter or weaker warranty, a subcontracted crew, or a company cutting corners to win volume. Weigh price against equipment quality, warranty backing, and whether the company is financially stable enough to still be around to honor that warranty. Our solar costs and ROI guide covers what a reasonable installed price per watt looks like.
Checking licensing and credentials
How do I check if a solar company is licensed in my state?
Look the company up on your state's contractor licensing board, which most states publish online, and confirm the license is active and covers electrical or solar work. Check for complaints or disciplinary actions while you are there. An unlicensed installer can void permits, equipment warranties, and even your homeowner's insurance.
Should my solar installer be NABCEP certified?
NABCEP certification is voluntary, not legally required, but it signals verified training and is worth favoring. Use the NABCEP locator to confirm a company's certification. Its absence is not a dealbreaker if the company is properly licensed and experienced, but its presence is a genuine plus.
How can I tell if a solar company's online reviews are fake?
Watch for a burst of five-star reviews posted in a short window, generic wording that never names a specific crew or city, and the total absence of any critical review. Cross-check across Google, the Better Business Bureau, and your state licensing board rather than trusting a single platform, and pay attention to how the company responds to negative reviews.
How do I verify a solar company before signing a contract?
Confirm the state license is active, check that the physical business address actually exists (a company with no verifiable address is hard to hold accountable), read reviews across several platforms, and get every claim in writing. Then confirm who performs the install and who stands behind the workmanship warranty.
Sales tactics and red flags
Should I trust a door-to-door solar salesman?
Door-to-door is a legitimate sales channel, but treat it with extra caution, because it is where the highest-pressure tactics concentrate. Never sign at the door. Take the proposal, verify the company independently, and get competing quotes before you commit to anything.
Why do solar companies pressure you to sign the same day?
Because a real system design needs a site assessment, a shade analysis, and an accurate production estimate, none of which can happen during a single sales visit. Same-day pressure and discounts that expire tonight exist to stop you from comparing quotes. Federal regulators report that high-pressure tactics are the industry's most common consumer complaint, and a legitimate offer is still there tomorrow.
What are the red flags when a solar salesman comes to your house?
Pressure to sign immediately, a discount that expires today, a demand for full payment upfront, vague or missing equipment details, promises of specific savings before any site assessment, no verifiable business address, and reluctance to put claims in writing. Any one of these is a reason to slow down and get another quote.
Is free solar too good to be true?
Almost always, yes. There is no free solar. "Free" usually describes a lease or power purchase agreement, where a company owns the panels and sells you the power, or a loan rolled into your monthly payment. You may still benefit, but you are entering a long financial agreement, so read carefully who owns the system and what the total payments are over the full term.
Deposit, contract, and warranty terms
How much of a deposit is normal for solar installation?
A modest deposit is normal, with the balance tied to milestones such as installation and final inspection. The red flag is a demand for full or near-full payment before any work begins, which removes your leverage if something goes wrong. Tie payments to completed stages, not to the calendar.
Should I pay for solar panels before they are installed?
Not in full. Paying the entire amount upfront leaves you with no leverage if the company delays, underperforms, or fails. Standard practice is a deposit followed by payments tied to milestones, with a portion held back until the system passes final inspection and the utility grants permission to operate.
How long should a solar workmanship warranty be?
Longer is better, and the strongest installers back their workmanship for around 25 years, though 10 years is common. More important than the number is whether the warranty is backed or insured by a third party, so it survives even if the installer goes out of business. A very short workmanship warranty is worth questioning.
What happens to my solar warranty if the installer goes out of business?
The manufacturer warranties on your panels and inverter usually survive, because those are separate companies. The installer's own workmanship warranty and monitoring often do not, which can leave a working system with nobody to service it. This risk got very real in 2026, and we cover it in full in our guide to solar company bankruptcies.
Who actually does the work
Do solar companies use subcontractors to install panels?
Many do, national brands especially, hiring local roofing or electrical crews when they lack their own team in your area. It can be perfectly fine, but it changes who is accountable if something goes wrong later. Ask in writing whether the installers are the company's own employees or subcontractors, and who holds the workmanship warranty.
Does it matter what brand of panels a solar company installs?
It matters for warranty durability more than for headline efficiency. An established, financially sound manufacturer is more likely to still exist to honor a 25-year performance warranty, and its equipment tends to hold up. Get the exact make and model in writing so you can compare, rather than accepting a generic "premium panels" claim.
Deciding between a local shop and a national brand is its own question. Our guide to local vs national solar companies compares them on price, service, and warranty risk.
The full vetting checklist
Before you sign with any solar company, confirm each of these:
- Licensing: Active state contractor's license covering solar or electrical work, with no unresolved complaints on the state board.
- Insurance: General liability and workers' compensation, verified with proof, not just claimed.
- Certification: NABCEP certification preferred, confirmed through the NABCEP locator.
- Equipment in writing: Exact panel and inverter make and model, not a generic "premium" label.
- Warranties: Workmanship (ideally around 25 years and third-party backed), plus the manufacturer product and performance warranties.
- Production estimate: A specific annual kilowatt-hour figure based on a real site and shade assessment.
- Payment schedule: A modest deposit with the balance tied to milestones, never full payment upfront.
- Backup service: The contract names who services the system if the installer cannot.
- Three quotes: At least three, compared on price per watt rather than sticker price.
When you are ready to compare specific companies, start with our solar company rankings, and see short answers to more questions on the solar answers hub.
FAQ
Do I need to pick a NABCEP-certified company?
NABCEP certification is not required, but it indicates verified training and is worth favoring. Many reputable installers have NABCEP-certified staff. Confirm licensing and local experience regardless.
Can I cancel a solar contract after signing?
Often yes, within a short window. Many contracts and several state laws allow cancellation within three business days of signing, especially for door-to-door sales. Read the cancellation terms before you sign, and do not sign if they are unclear.
How do I know if a solar company is legit?
Confirm an active state license, verify a real physical address, check reviews across Google, the Better Business Bureau, and your state board, and get every claim in writing. Be wary of high-pressure sales, same-day discounts, and demands for full payment upfront.